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CET

13:41

DO YOU EVEN PUNK? AN INTERVIEW WITH tHERAPY

Words by

Luka Mahmuljin Udovičić

Published

June 28, 2024

An interview with Angie and Poli, the sister duo behind tHERAPY, a sustainable fashion brand.

tHERAPY was founded by two sisters in 2012, based in both Berlin and Cordoba, is participating in Berlin Fashion Week 2024 with their newest collection, ANTAgonia. ANTAgonia offers a transformative and vulnerable approach to fashion, showing us just how contradictory the nature of humans is by creating tension with different shapes, textures, colours and style. It juxtaposes seemingly opposing worlds, showing two sides of the same coin at the same time.

Opposites attract themselves. Opposites coexist. Opposites exist inside everything. The antagonism exists within.

Recycling, for Angie and Polie, is the most logical way of creating. They prioritize durable designs, collaborations with seamstresses, local sourcing, as well as a zero waste policy. 100% of the materials are discarded from the textile industry, leather goods (pre-consumer discard) and used garments and accessories (post-consumer discard). Throughout the years, they have had several collections (such as ‘Awake,’ 2020, ‘SYST3M FAILUR3,’ 2019 etc.) capsule drops, shows, workshops and pop-ups. This summer tHERAPY is launching their 9th collection, ‘ANTAgonia.’ In the following interview, which took place one week before Berlin Fashion Week 2024, I talk to Angie and Poli about their working process, the new collection, as well as their latest musical obsessions!

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'Arguing that punk has run its course is like saying painting ran its course after the Renaissance. Punk is an idea.

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It's freedom. And it'll be around 200 years from now for the people who want it." -Patti Smith

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'Arguing that punk has run its course is like saying painting ran its course after the Renaissance. Punk is an idea.

‍

It's freedom. And it'll be around 200 years from now for the people who want it." -Patti Smith

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The show is taking place at Pandora Art Gallery, Berlin, on July 4th as well as a week long Pop-Up Store at the Gallery, from July 1 to 5, 2-6PM

ANTI (against, opposed to, opposite of, instead)

LUKA: To start off, I noticed a thread (no pun intended) through your work and the brand itself. The presence of both polarity and twofoldness seems to be an ongoing narrative within not only the work you do but the very spine of the brand: two sisters, two cities (Cordoba-Berlin), organic and artificial, power and submission, opulence and scarcity, femininity and masculinity, nature and humanity, past and future: have you noticed this within your work and does dualism play an inherent role in your design philosophy?

tHERAPY: Yes, I have definitely noticed this dualism in our work, and it plays an important role in the design philosophy. The concept of polarity and duality is deeply rooted in both our personal approach and the brand identity. This duality manifests itself in various aspects, from the founding of the brand by two sisters in two different cities, to the thematic contrasts we explore in our designs.

In this particular collection, we juxtapose the organic with the artificial, creating a dialogue between natural elements and modern synthetic materials. This reflects a broader narrative of harmony and conflict between nature and humanity, and the balance we strive to maintain in our environment and our designs.

Power and submission is another theme that explores the dynamics of control and freedom in our pieces. We aim to express the tension and interplay between these forces, whether through the structure of a garment or the choice of materials.

Similarly, the contrast between opulence and scarcity is something we consciously incorporate, highlighting the richness of certain fabrics or details against more minimalist and sober elements. This not only speaks to the value we place on resources, but also to a broader commentary on consumerism and sustainability.

Femininity and masculinity are also referred in our work, but we strive to create pieces that transcend traditional gender norms and embrace a more fluid understanding of identity. Our new designs blend soft, flowing lines with more rigid, structured shapes, symbolizing the integration of these aspects.

Finally, the interplay between past and future is always present in our work. We draw inspiration from historical references while pushing the boundaries with innovative and experimental techniques.

Dualism and specially contradiction are not just thematic elements, but basic principles that shape ourselves as people and therefore our designs, guiding our creative processes and the narratives we choose to explore.

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LUKA: Speaking of things opposite of one another, how is it to work as sisters? And, more specifically, in this context: is it challenging to sustain a brand with a family member at such a distance as well, one living in Argentina and the other one in Berlin? What are the ups and downs of this working arrangement?

tHERAPY: Working as sisters, especially when one is in Argentina and the other in Berlin, presents both challenges and rewards. Physical distance can complicate communication and coordination, but technology helps to bridge this distance. One of the main advantages is the unique perspective that each of us brings from their respective location, which enriches the diversity and creativity of the brand.

Advantages include leveraging different local resources and markets, which enhances sustainability and the uniqueness of recycled designs. Disadvantages can be logistical complexities and time differences. However, our shared passion for upcycling and creativity strengthens the collaboration, turning these challenges into opportunities for innovation, authenticity and growth.

‘Punks by nature of what they are defining themselves against, embrace early gyrations of 70’s sustainability: Reduce, Reuse, Recycle. Each of these simple strategies are attacks on consumerism, so punks relationship to capitalism and corporate elitism is personal. It’s also political.’ -John Rooks

AGON (conflict, combat, struggle or contest)

LUKA: I was curious as to where does the concept for this collection (ANTAgonia) in particular come from: is it from various personal experiences, conversations with others, current political landscape, or all of the above? In a previous interview with Red Eye, you have said that concepts and ideas come mainly from the materials, is this still true for the ANTAgonia collection?

tHERAPY: The concept of the ANTAgonia collection derives from a mix of personal experiences and the current social and geopolitical landscape, but as always, materials play a key role in shaping ideas.

In this particular collection much of the concept is also driven by the materials we had available. As always, 100% of the materials used are discarded from the textile industry, leather goods and used garments. This focus on materials ensures that each piece is unique, while being made in a completely thoughtful way.

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LUKA: With this being your 9th collection since starting the brand in 2012, what changes have you observed in the fashion industry, particularly regarding sustainability? What would you say is the biggest difference in operating as a circular brand now compared to ten years ago?

tHERAPY: Since we founded the brand, we have seen significant changes in the fashion industry, especially when it comes to sustainability. Awareness and demand for sustainable practices have increased, and more and more brands and consumers are recognizing the importance of environmental responsibility.

The biggest difference in operating as a circular brand now compared to ten years ago is the greater acceptance and support for circular fashion. In the beginning, it was difficult to convince stakeholders and consumers of the value of upcycling and zero waste practices. Today, there is more appreciation for sustainability. There is greater interest in the story behind designs, acceptance for reused materials, and more resources and networks are available to support circular fashion initiatives.

IA (quality, suffix added to form feminine abstract nouns)

“The collection reimagines a mix of garments traditionally associated with a patriarchal, efficiency and production based system, transforming them into new morphologies that envision alternative worlds, not governed by consumption or the domination of one gender or species over another”‍

LUKA: As we all try to navigate and adapt to the current systems of power and modern-day frustrations, it seems fashion is your chosen medium of expression. However, I am curious to know if you have any other hobbies outside of fashion/styling, or anything unrelated to the tHERAPY brand?

tHERAPY: We have other interests that help us relax and find inspiration. We like activities such as reading, cinema, physical and outdoor activities, as well as exploring exhibitions in galleries and museums and traveling when possible to learn about other cultures. This allows us to connect with nature, express creativity from different angles and appreciate cultural diversity, which in turn often influences our work by providing new perspectives and ideas.

LUKA: Last but (definitely!) not the least, is there a song(or a playlist, a set) that has been played the most in the studio whilst working on the collection? What is the latest musical obsession from the team at tHERAPY Berlin?

tHERAPY: We have been listening to a mix of genres that sometimes have nothing to do with each other, ranging from Britney Spears to Bowie, DAF, Depeche Mode, Latin music and Jazz. Lately we've been listening to more dance-electronic playlists like Disclosure and indie like Tame Impala in the Berlin studio now that we're together. As you will see, we do not have a common thread in this sense, we like to stay open to musicalize the mood of each moment.