AN INTERVIEW WITH ABBAS MANDEGAR
Sustainability is important for me. I not only use recycled materials in my fashion designs but also incorporate recycled tools and objects.
AN INTERVIEW BY LUKA
AN INTERVIEW BY LUKA
1. Let’s dive right in.
How is it to use your past as material/inspiration?
A- It’s difficult for me to talk about and express these experiences fully, but I know there are probably many others who have lived through similar struggles. Not just working as child laborers, but also losing their families to war, leaving their home countries, and starting over as refugees, like I did in Pakistan. My work reflects these experiences, and while it’s a way for me to process the pain and frustration, I also hope that it can inspire others who’ve been through similar hardships. If I can turn my past into something creative and positive, maybe others can see that they, too, can find a way to rise above and create something meaningful.
2.When working on a project, do you start making and then realize a concept as you go or do you have an idea/topic in mind already and start working from there?
A- It’s a combination of both. Sometimes I start with a clear concept, particularly if it’s a reflection on a personal experience. Other times, I let the materials guide me, especially when I’m upcycling or reusing fabrics. I’ll begin the physical process of making, and as I manipulate the materials, the concept can evolve or clarify itself. It’s a dialogue between the idea and the act of creation.
3.Coming from my own personal experience of creating from painful and/or difficult experiences, how easy is it to know where the work ends and where you begin? Do you compartmentalize the two, keeping them separate, or is it a more intuitive Approach?
A- I don’t compartmentalize much; the emotions and memories tied to my past naturally flow into the garments I create. That said, I do strive to maintain a balance. It’s important for me to process these experiences, rather than let them consume me.
4. You had previously stated that learning sewing skills at such a young age was proven to be more than useful in your career as a fashion designer. In Croatian language, for example, we have a saying ‘SVAKO ZLO ZA NEKO DOBRO’ meaning, every ‘evil’ brings something ‘good’ in the end (like ‘every cloud has a silver lining,’ but better). Is this how you view your past experience as a child labour worker, as it made you who you are today? Do you think it is difficult to get to a point in life where you can turn any resentment and negativity into a sense of gratitude and accomplishment, through perseverance, as shown in your work?
A- Yes, we have a similar saying in Persian: “است سپید سیه شب پایان “which means “the end of a dark night is a bright morning.” I view my past in this light. While those years of being a child laborer were tough, they were not permanent. Just like the night eventually turns into morning, I came out of that dark period stronger and more determined. I am not ashamed of my past—it shaped me into the person I am today. The hardships I faced gave me resilience and a deeper understanding of the industry, and I’ve learned to transform those experiences into something
positive through my work.
5. How was it living in Sweden in Comparison to growing up and living in Afganistan and Pakistan? Are there any similarities?
A- I love Sweden. I’ve received so much more than I ever expected when I arrived. Sweden welcomed immigrants with open arms and gave me the opportunities I had been searching for my entire life. After 9 years here, I’m now a Swedish citizen, and I proudly represent Sweden as my home country. There are many similarities between Swedish culture and the culture I grew up in—both value community, respect, and care for others. The biggest difference is definitely the weather, which is much colder than Pakistan! But even with that, Sweden feels like home, and I’m grateful for everything this country has given me.
6. Your work seems to contain a lot of upcycling, reusing etc. How do you ensure that the materials you use in your designs, align with your commitment to sustainability and transparency within fashion?
A- Sustainability is important for me. I not only use recycled materials in my fashion designs but also incorporate recycled tools and objects. For example, I create jewelry SALVAGED METALS from old cutlery, giving these everyday items a new life and purpose. I thrive on the challenge of taking something discarded and transforming it into something meaningful and beautiful.
7. What draws you to metal? (the material, not the music genre!) Is it the coldness, sharpness, malleability, rawness, reflectivity, or something else entirely?
A- I’m drawn to metal because of its contrasts. It’s cold and sharp, but also malleable and transformative, much like the journey I’ve been on. Metal has a rawness that feels honest to me, and its reflective nature adds layers to my work, both literally and metaphorically. It’s a material that can evoke strength, vulnerability, and resilience all at once, which resonates deeply with my story.
8.Now that I mentioned it, I might as well ask: what music do you find yourself listening to while creating? Do you listen to music at all? If so, do you have a song you'd recommend to me?
A- I speak four languages, and I listen to music in all of them. However, Persian and Indian music resonate with me the most. The lyrics in these languages feel more meaningful and soulful compared to English songs—they really touch your spirit. Lately, I’ve been listening to an Indian band called MITRAZ, and their calming vocals have been on repeat for the past six months while I was working on my collection. Their music helps me stay grounded and focused. One of their best songs is Akhiyaan Gulaab, which has a soothing quality that really connects with me.
9. And now, every graduate’s favourite question:
What’s next?
(feel free to respond as vaguely, detailed, descriptive, non-descriptive, visually, as you want. or not at all.)
A- Right now, I’m in the process of applying for jobs, but it’s been a bit challenging over the past few months. Hopefully, something will come through soon. I really want to move to Paris and live there for a couple of years—it’s always been a dream of mine. Paris feels like the perfect place for me to grow as a designer and experience the fashion world in a completely different way. For now, I’m staying optimistic and focusing on what’s ahead.
