what do you call a fish with no eyes?

There’s nothing I love more than a big, big, big, tight shirt.

I love them in the morning, at the gym, in the club or even a bakery. 

Form-fitting, stretchy, sporty material in bright colours is my personal everyday go-to for some reason. I didn’t even realize how much sports related attire I wear until my friends threw a sports themed house party and everyone turned to me to borrow some looks. Gag!

So through my personal evolution of wearing oversized tees, skinny jeans and (unsuccessfully) cosplaying as a straight teenager, somehow, I arrived to this point, wearing skin-tight, tiny, plastic-ridden micro-skirts and crop-tops.

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However, Surprise surprise! Most tight fitted shirts are made or mixed with some sort of elastane, polyester or one of their other friends.

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These are the type of friends of friends that show up to the function, uninvited, taking up space, trapping heat, consuming all the food and drinks just to hit the road with your moisturizer in their bag. 

But in reality, they never fully leave. 

The remnants stay: cigarette buds, lipstick stained glasses, crumbs everywhere, and a lingering sense of anxiety: a feeling that someone or something is still present, even after they’ve gone.

And now you are standing there, drained of your energy, cleaning up all their mess but knowing damn well you are going to keep finding the shit they left behind for months, even years on end.

Like that one time you found a melted blueberry chewing gum under the cushions of your favorite couch, knowing exactly it was Them who left it there. 

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After putting the last set of greasy utensils in the dishwasher, you take a shower to unwind, feeling thankful that the next gathering they might show up unannounced will definitely not be your house again.

The shower is set on the hottest setting as you scrub the day away.

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The List Of Friends Of Friends Who Show Up Unannounced 

Acetate, Acrylic, Polyester, Polyurethane, Nylon, Spandex, Vinyl, etc.etc.

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These So-Called ‘Petchems’ AKA PETROCHEMICALS, are chemical products obtained from petroleum as well as natural gas.

Petroleum originates from ancient marine microorganisms buried under sediments and transformed over geological time scales. 

(You can find more info in the MSF Knowledge Centre)

Let’s take Polyester, for example. The leading fabric in the world. The king who seized the throne in the early 2000s, dethroning the long-reigning cotton queen.

55% of global fabrics production is polyester, made from petroleum. And around 98% of the polyester produced globally is derived from fossil fuels, specifically petroleum. This means that out of the 55 percent mark of the global fabric market that polyester occupies, nearly all of it is based on fossil fuel sources, with only a small fraction coming from recycled or bio-based alternatives. Yikes!

Here’s a quick rundown of why we don’t like polyester: 

Fossil Fuel Dependency, Microplastic Pollution, Non-Biodegradable, High Energy Use…

wait a damn minute!

But why do fossil fuels suck (badly)?

Fossil fuels (petroleum, coal, natural gas, tar sands, shale oil..)  release large amounts of carbon dioxide (which traps heat) and other greenhouse gases when burned, contributing to climate change and global warming. This leads to many of god-awful things including (but not limited to) extreme weather, rising sea levels, disrupted ecosystems, respiratory and cardiovascular diseases in humans… The extraction and transportation of fossil fuels also lead to environmental degradation, including oil spills and habitat destruction. 

They are also non-renewable! Meaning there is a limited amount available: this scarcity just further contributes to geopolitical tensions, resource conflicts, and economic inequalities. 

The competition for fossil fuel resources has historically been a source of war conflict (still very much is!), leading to instability, exploitation and colonization in regions rich in these resources. Thus, the control and extraction of these fuels often (if not always) lead to significant wealth displacement, with money being concentrated in the hands of a few while most struggle to make ends meet. 

And all of this for some gym shirts and car fuel? Sheesh..

So, basically, every time a new plastic-ridden petroleum-based shirt is purchased, it indirectly supports a war somewhere.

+ Fossil fuels are to blame for 83-85% of global CO2 emissions in 2023 

(reports by the Global Carbon Project and the International Energy Agency (IEA)

Teeny Tiny Polyester History Lesson

Polyester was invented in 1941 by British dudes John Rex Whinfield and James Tennant Dickson. They discovered that combining two petroleum derivatives (ethylene glycol with terephthalic acid) could produce a polymer that could be spun into fibers. This new material was surprisingly strong, resistant to shrinking and stretching, and retained its shape well, making it ideal for textiles and the perfect marketing product, quickly becoming super duper popular.

The hype eventually died down in the 60s due to the material being criticized for feeling hot, sticky, and non-breathable, developing a reputation for being associated with cheap, low-quality clothing.

However, a couple of years/decades later, with the development of polyester blends, where polyester was mixed with natural fibers like cotton, the material was back stronger than ever, due to its versatility and low cost of production, especially on a large scale, helping fast fashion become the beast it is today.

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SYMBIOSIS PROGNOSIS: 

Becoming The Salmon In The Stream Of Fear

'I don't know what's right and what's real anymore

And I don't know how I'm meant to feel anymore

And when do you think it will all become clear?

'Cause I'm being taken over by the fear’

-Allen, Lily. "The Fear." It's Not Me, It's You, Regal Recordings, 2009. 

This is what I felt like looking up information on microplastics and polyester leftovers.

Lily was, once again, right.

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It’s inescapable: my algorithm has been abducted by puppies and health advice. 

More specifically, warnings that everything we consume is poisonous.

Which, to a degree, is true. But would life be fun if there wasn’t anything to continuously intoxicate ourselves with?

So, If I the internet tells me that I shouldn’t buy cow milk because it’s immoral, high in saturated fat and cholesterol, full of potential hormones and antibiotics, I shouldn’t buy oat milk because of its high sugar and low protein levels, possibly contaminated with gluten and full of carbohydrates, I shouldn’t buy soy milk because of processing concerns, having high levels of phytoestrogen (mimics estrogen) as well as goitrogens (affects thyroid), what does this leave me with?

What does this leave us with?

I shouldn’t use a plastic cutting board because I will end up eating the board itself. I shouldn’t use a wooden board because wood stores bacteria, what does this leave me with?

What does this leave us with?

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Fearmongering (noun): the action of deliberately arousing public fear or alarm about a particular issue.

(The Merriam-Webster Dictionary Definition)

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Enough of the milk talk, back to polyester.

To say microplastics have become one of the main horsemen of the media-induced fear mongering is to acknowledge how environmental concerns can be sensationalized, yet rarely acted upon. We just get more products recommended to combat the problem at hand (such as the Guppyfriend bag, Cora ball, PlanetCare filters, etc.), and never enough real money invested in research and solutions. Basically the only thing most big companies and polluters do is clean up 1/1000000000000000 of the mess they had caused in the first place. For example, every time a fleece jacket is washed, around 2000 fibers get washed away in the waterway. And from there it gets into the soil, water, animals, etc. etc.

Plastic is everywhere and will be here forever, and it’s on us to deal with the mess we made. Or the mess our ancestors made, whatever. 

Microplastics originate from pretty much everything and anything under the sun, from cosmetics and cleaning products (primary sources), as breakdowns of larger plastic items and synthetic fabrics shedding fibers (secondary sources). They are found everywhere including oceans, rivers, lakes, and even in atmospheric dust!!!! As well as entering our diet and bodies through the food chain.

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Microplastics have been detected in honey, beer, seafood, salt, testicles, human blood…Oh Yeah…Extra Spicy set of humans nowadays…. MMMMm

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A single fibre from your favorite top will exist decades after you die.

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In 2022, I worked on a speculative project called the ‘Pradaglomerates’ referring to a material (Plastiglomerate) formed from molten plastic combined with various sedimentary processes. 

‍Is this what all rocks will look like in 500 years?

Plastiglomerates are nature-made and man-driven, so I blended those same artificial (found plastic, nets and faux fur) and natural (clay, dirt, leaves, etc.) materials, both mimicking and questioning society’s choices and their influences on nature and the planet itself.

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The content in the box already exists

Like the reddit user 'SubstanceStrong' says on r/ZeroWaste, 

“If it makes you feel any better we’re all in this together”

GETTING BACK TO THE BIG TIGHT SHIRT convo.

Here are some useful alternatives to polyester and the rest of the uninvited crew. As well as tips for living in a universe of plastics. If you think of anything or have any suggestions feel free to email us!

• Shopping natural fabrics/ finding brands that focus on natural fabrics: as they are more breathable and biodegradable
• Keeping an eye out for mixes! Polyester especially is almost everywhere, mixed with natural fibers and materials
• Thrifting as research: I’d say most of thrift shops and second hands have a bunch of clothes with polyester, viscose, nylon, etc. Feeling the material and teaching your skin to be able to tell and differentiate materials from one another is crucial in understanding not only what it is you are touching, but allows you to make more informed choices that support sustainability and your own well-being
• Testing out different filter systems for microfibers and microplastics, washing clothes only when needed (check washing temperatures on your clothes to take better care of them!)
• Asking questions! If you want to make a purchase and are curious about the material composition or the ingredient source, ask the person/brand you are buying the piece from! No shame in the question game #NoShameInTheQuestionGame
• Keeping up with the latest research! Not shying away from big words or getting overwhelmed by an influx of constant information. Learning how to recognize real information from branding strategies and greenwashing
• Practice makes Almost-Purrfect! Not being too hard on yourself! No one is nor can be perfect, but everyone can practice getting there! We all know process is what matters most. Process and good fresh croissants #ProcessAndGoodFreshCroissants
• Engage in educational and inspirational discourse instead of getting stuck fear mongering and feeding the beast!
• Use glass or metal for storing food, and wood for cutting produce! Clean the wood with a bit of vinegar and water and voila! No bacteria ;)
• Avoid single use plastics! Look for biodegradable materials as well
• Be mindful of the cosmetic and self-care products you use!
• Advocate for policies that regulate plastic production, promote sustainable alternatives, and improve waste management systems! We are all in this together, in different boats but within the same sea

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SOURCES

_{“Petrochemical.” MSF Magazine, https://www.msfmag.com/knowledge-articles/petrochemical}

_{Ashlee Uren “How Sustainable Is Polyester?” Good On You, 18 Mar 2024, https://goodonyou.eco/how-sustainable-is-polyester/.}

_{D’Angelo, Laura. “How Green Are Your Leggings? Recycled Polyester Is Not a Silver Bullet—Yet.” The Guardian, 22 Mar. 2021, https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/mar/22/how-green-are-your-leggings-recycled-polyester-is-not-a-silver-bullet-yet.}

_{McCormick, Eliza. “Microfibers and Plastic Pollution: How Synthetic Clothes Are Polluting Our Oceans.” The Guardian, 20 June 2016, https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/jun/20/microfibers-plastic-pollution-oceans-patagonia-synthetic-clothes-microbeads.}

_{"The Antidote For Fear."Papadosio, featuring Ram Dass, Papadosio, 12 Apr. 2024.}

_{Taylor, Matthew. “Toxic Plastic Microbeads Are in Our Oceans and Food Chain.” The Guardian, 27 Oct. 2014, https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2014/oct/27/toxic-plastic-synthetic-microscopic-oceans-microbeads-microfibers-food-chain.}

_{Materials Market Report 2023. Textile Exchange, Nov. 2023, https://textileexchange.org/app/uploads/2023/11/Materials-Market-Report-2023.pdf.}

_{PFMM. Textile Exchange, https://pfmm.textileexchange.org/.}

_{How Polyester Is Made. YouTube, uploaded by The Conscious Consumer, 15 Mar. 2024, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcq9tPI-W-c.}

_{The Impact of Polyester on the Environment. YouTube, uploaded by EcoTalks, 22 Apr. 2024, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCwbU41Icfw.}

_{Exploring the Polyester Production Process. YouTube, uploaded by Green Fashion Channel, 10 May 2024, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1pCbkVLAOw.}

_{Understanding Polyester and Its Alternatives. YouTube, uploaded by Sustainable Living, 3 June 2024, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-B4tfduOQ7w.}

_{Marjorie van Elven “How Sustainable Is Recycled Polyester?” Fashion United, 15 Nov. 2018, https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/how-sustainable-is-recycled-polyester/2018111540000.}

_{The Story of Microplastics. YouTube, uploaded by Eco Insights, 12 June 2024, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnTBic466bA.}

_{Microplastics in the Ocean: What You Need to Know. YouTube, uploaded by Planet Watchers, 8 July 2024, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3p3-vl9VFYU.}

_{Liitschwager, David.Microplastics. National Geographic Education, National Geographic Society, https://education.nationalgeographic.org/resource/microplastics/.}

_{How Microplastics Affect Our Environment. YouTube, uploaded by Sustainability Explained, 20 July 2024, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYkglUysDKk.}

_{JACKIE NARANJO “Lake Berryessa Hole and Drought.” L.A. Magazine, 21 Feb 2017  https://lamag.com/news/lake-berryessa-hole-drought.}

_{Amy Fleming, “The Guardian.” “Air, Drinking Water, Dust, Food: How to Reduce Your Exposure to Microplastics.” The Guardian, 10 July 2023, https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2023/jul/10/air-drinking-water-dust-food-how-to-reduce-exposure-microplastics.}

_{Hu, Chelin Jamie, et al. “Microplastic Presence in Dog and Human Testis and Its Potential Association with Sperm Count and Weights of Testis and Epididymis.” Toxicological Sciences, vol. 200, no. 2, Aug. 2024, Oxford Academic, https://academic.oup.com/toxsci/advance-article-abstract/doi/10.1093/toxsci/kfae060/7673133?redirectedFrom=fulltext&login=false.}

_{Sarah Sloat, “Microplastics and Health: What You Need to Know.” The New York Times, 7 June 2024, https://www.nytimes.com/2024/06/07/well/microplastics-health.html.}

_{Inemesit Ukpanah “Fossil Fuel Analysis.” Green Match, 26 April 2024  https://www.greenmatch.co.uk/fossil-fuel-analysis.}

_{Luxiders. “5 Toxic Textiles to Avoid.” Luxiders, https://luxiders.com/5-toxic-textiles-to-avoid/.}

_{“Microplastics.” National Geographic Education, https://education.nationalgeographic.org/resource/microplastics/.}

_{‘Pradaglomerates,’ Luka Mahmuljin Udovičić, 2021. https://everybodylovesluka.com/PRADAGLOMERATES}

_{'Gone Fishing,’ Carys Higgins, 2023 https://caryshiggins.com/Gone-Fishing}

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