FASHION
SPILLING THE SERUM: THE INERRANCY OF TRANSPARENCY
Words by
LUKA MAHMULJIN UDOVIČIĆ
Published
September 2, 2024

Luka Highlights 5 Skincare Brands Which Are Doing Something Good For The World

In order to have some order in this world, an order of one’s mental and physical wellbeing has to be placed. Smooth skin, pretty face, healthy mind, healthy body, something like that, right?

The Eyes Are the Windows and The Eyebrows are the House


'One of the of the biggest issues with the skincare industry is that every brand is trying to convince you that your wrinkles, blemishes, "big pores," leg hair, and general normal human qualities are inherently ugly, and that they conveniently have the solution to your problems.'

- Lucy Rose Albert from Liturgy

PRO TIP: BUY LOCAL AS MUCH AS YOU CAN! It is often more sustainable and better for the environment + the less items are shipped long distances, the better!!
The Eyes Are the Windows and The Eyebrows are the House

Having suffered with acne and skin issues throughout my early adolescence and teenage years, skincare is very important in my (one person) household.

How I feel each day depends on how I make sense of existing in the shape of my own face and body that given day. Whether we like it or not, our physical form is the first thing most people see and make a judgment/base an opinion on.

The representation of one as a self in this world.

It all goes through the eyes, the mouth and whatnot. I mean, there is probably someone who only notices elbows and doesn’t look or remember people’s faces, only their elbows, but that’s not what I’m here to discuss nor is that my experience. Whether we use skincare and beauty products to look better, to feel better, or both: we can all agree that self-care affects mental and physical wellbeing, and could not be contained in a single product or a brand.

If getting my eyebrows threaded and putting on expensive moisturizer makes me feel better in my shell, why not do it?

Ghost in the Shell. Directed by Mamoru Oshii, Production I.G, 1995.

*(Shell=Physical Form. Skin Suit. Human Wrapper. Integumentary System. Tissue Tuxedo…)*

Whatever the case might be, ultimately, something or someone always has to come first.

Prioritizing our own top priorities should come as a priority in 2024.

THE IMPORTANCE OF TRANSPARENCY IN THE SKINCARE INDUSTRY

In this article, I will highlight a few global skincare brands, each of which is doing something good, sustainable and/or circular.

As stated in the previous skincare article, no brand or person can be 100% sustainable. However, it is important to set systems and specifications in place to combat things such as climate change, deforestation, environmental degradation, health effects on workers as well as users, etc. From New Zealand to Slovenia, the brands mentioned are using their platforms to address and combat global issues head on. Most of these brands show an understanding that transparency is the sharpest weapon, the one which makes or breaks a deal. Nonetheless, as stated previously and shown in the graphics created, the angle of transparency is often misused as a marketing tool and a fairytale to get more consumers to buy their product.

In the age of being bombarded with anything and everything 24//7, with ads in every corner of the Earth, influencers boasting the latest and greatest products, we have to make our own decisions, we have to do our own research! We have to be our own Judge Judy. To talk about the good and the bad, the wrong and the right, and most importantly: the space in between.

I believe using transparency and offering each other our own experiences and glimpses behind the curtain, makes the world a nicer place to live in.

We have to be transparent with one another, and hold ourselves accountable > that’s the least we can do.

Original image Courtesy of CBS

As promised, here are some skincare brands worth supporting.

If you agree, disagree or have a different opinion, feel free to contact us and share your thoughts at [hello@msfmag.com]

Additionally, here is an article breaking down different types of certifications and why they are important in the skincare industry. It is notable to say that certifications aren’t the end-all-be-all but they do help with transparency and holding brands accountable. However, the certification processes cost quite some money and time so small and local businesses often do not opt for acquiring them, which does not directly imply unsustainability of that brand.

We researched different sustainability efforts from each brand mentioned. The information has been gathered on the internet, with the exception of Liturgy. For easier understanding of the brand’s efforts, we have developed the MSF SUSTAINABILITY SCOREBOARD, where each brand is ‘graded’ across five different categories in levels 1-5.

Find the explanation in the image below.

1 EMMA LEWISHAM (New Zealand)
Website 💥

Emma Lewisham definitely stands out amongst other brands. Leading with full transparency and setting the example for others to follow is done in a sleek yet powerful and respectful way.

Whilst pregnant, Emma used a product containing hydroquinone to treat hyperpigmentation. Her doctor warned her that this controversial ingredient is banned across several countries, advising her to stop using it. This revelation inspired her to create what would become the brand Emma Lewisham three years later: I highly suggest looking at the ‘about’ section on their website as well as their full Sustainability Strategy, which is definitely setting a right example.

Read Emma's sustainability strategy as well as the full ingredient list.

2 KRAVE BEAUTY (Los Angeles, USA)
Website 💥

The brand cuts through the noise of endless products, conflicting advice and multi-step routines, encouraging people to “press reset” and practice intentional skincare.*

Launched in 2017 by the influencer Liah Yoo, Krave was a direct response to feelings of overwhelmingness by the amount of skincare products and content. #Relatable

The brand encourages people to ‘press reset’ and listen to their skin more closely instead of others preaching what’s good and what’s bad for other people’s skin. The main goal is to slow down skincare use, production and trends.

3 LOOPECO (UK)
Website 💥

LOOPECO was started by siblings Charlotte and James in the UK. With their mixed knowledge of holistic medicine, homeopathy and design, they embarked on a mission to create a closed loop economy.

“A world where everything is shared, repaired, reused or recycled. Where waste is turned into a valuable resource.”
4 ACTIVIST (Los Angeles, USA)
Website 💥

Basically, Activist started when Allison (founder) was six and learnt about the shrinking of the Amazon forest. Activist proudly says they are “EARTH’S FIRST 100% REFILLABLE SKINCARE,” launching in 2020. Their products are handmade in small batches in Los Angeles, and their website features an amazing blog filled with both inspiring and useful articles such as 'Why Black Womxn & Girls Belong in Climate Work with Wawa Gatheru of Black Girl Environmentalist,' How to write your representatives using Chat GPT in 3 easy steps,' and many more.

5 LITURGY (Slovenia)
Website 💥

DISCLAIMER: The scoreboard was created for bigger/global brands so the same exact parameters cannot apply to a local brand like Liturgy. Due to limited information of the exact behind-the-scenes workings, we tried our best to apply a similar scoring system. However, I reached out to Liturgy's founder, Lucy, who sent us a sustainability statement (read below).

Liturgy is a small, locally produced brand, started by Lucy in 2017. After moving from NYC to Ljubljana, she had some time on her hands and decided to start making products she would otherwise purchase herself! As stated in the beginning of the article, supporting small local businesses is one of the most sustainable things to do. I had the privilege to ask her to elaborate her stance on sustainability in her practice.

The Liturgy Letter
Image Courtesy of Liturgy, 'Skin Fluff'

SOURCES

Ghost in the Shell. Directed by Mamoru Oshii, Production I.G, 1995.

“How to Be a Sustainable Beauty Brand: Emma Lewisham Review AD.” Lab Muffin Beauty Science, uploaded by Lab Muffin Beauty Science, 25 Apr. 2024, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMXMavrM0eo&ab_channel=LabMuffinBeautyScience

"Emma Lewisham Sustainability." Emma Lewisham, 2024, https://emmalewisham.com/en-eu/pages/sustainability .

"Emma Lewisham Sustainability Strategy 2023." Emma Lewisham, 2023, https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0078/2483/4619/files/Emma_Lewisham_Sustainability_Strategy_2023.pdf?v=1695243672.

"Transparency." Loop Eco, Loop Store, 2024, https://loopeco.com/pages/transparency .

Ciccone, Lucy. Liturgy of Self-Love. Liturgical Skin, 2024, https://www.liturgyselflove.com/ .

"Activist Skincare." Activist Skincare, 2024, https://activistskincare.com/ .

"About Us." Krave Beauty, Krave Beauty Inc., 2024, https://kravebeauty.com/pages/about-us .

"2023 Impact Report." Shopify, 2023, https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2090/8057/files/2023_Impact_Report.pdf?v=1706804522.

Thorne, Will "Judge Judy’s Sheindlin to Star in New Court Show for Amazon’s IMDb TV." Variety, 24 July 2020, https://variety.com/2020/tv/news/judge-judy-sheindlin-new-court-show-amazon-imdb-tv-1234819053/ .

"Beauty and Personal Care." Authentic Green Brands, Authentic Green Brands, https://www.authenticgreenbrands.com/certification/beauty-and-personal-care

Fonder, Sarah. "Sick of Waste in the Skincare Industry? Sustainable Brand KraveBeauty Is Too." Print, 22 Apr. 2022, https://www.printmag.com/branding-identity-design/sick-of-waste-in-the-skincare-industry-sustainable-brand-kravebeauty-is-too/

Dorsam, Brian Fabry. "White as a Ghost in the Shell: Colonialism, Hate Crime, and Pop Media." F Newsmagazine, 11 Apr. 2017, https://fnewsmagazine.com/2017/04/white-as-a-ghost-in-the-shell-colonialism-hate-crime-and-pop-media/

Evans, Greg. "Ghost in the Shell: Identity Crisis." Little White Lies, 2017, https://lwlies.com/articles/ghost-in-the-shell-identity-crisis/

ACCOUNTABILITY. FRAGILITY. VULNERABILITY. HONESTY. TRANSPARENCY

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