Biomaterial

Fashion Biomaterials

a fashion biomaterial either:

• contains biomass
• is made from biologically derived ingredients
• was made using some kind of biological process
• is biodegradable
• or is all of the above

Pros

The primary motivation of biomaterial research is the replacement of textiles like animal leather which require a lot of energy, resources and chemical treatment.

Cons

If primary resources are used instead of waste streams, the production still is energy and resource intense.

Furthermore, in order to compete with established textiles, the currently available biomaterials are often combined with petrochemical-based or with non-biodegradable materials.

However, the biomaterial industry is improving fast and we are very excited about the future innovations!

Biofabricate and Fashion for Good (2020) Understanding ‘Bio’ Material Innovations: A Primer for the Fashion Industry

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Mycelium

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Mycelium is the root structure of fungi. It grows in a network of filaments, and when combined with a substrate (like agricultural byproducts), it can be grown into specific shapes and densities. Mycelium-based materials are being developed for use in packaging, textiles, and even as a leather alternative.

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Biodegradable: Yes, mycelium is fully biodegradable, breaking down into non-toxic substances that can enrich soil.

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Recyclable: Mycelium-based products are not traditionally “recyclable” in the same sense as plastics or metals, but the material can be composted or sometimes reused in other growing projects.

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Biobased: Entirely, as it’s grown from fungal spores.

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Compostable: Yes, mycelium materials can be composted, contributing to soil health without leaving harmful residues.

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Sustainability Summary

Mycelium-based materials represent a significant step towards sustainability in materials science because they are grown from renewable fungal networks, require minimal energy, and utilize agricultural byproducts as substrates, making them a low-impact option. 

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Mycelium’s biodegradability and compostability, combined with its low environmental footprint during production, position it as a highly sustainable material choice for a variety of applications, from fashion to packaging and construction.

Algae-based Materials

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Algae, including seaweed, can be processed into bioplastics, foams, and fibers. These materials are explored for use in packaging, fashion, and even construction, offering a renewable resource that also helps absorb CO2 during growth.

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Biodegradable: Algae-based materials can be designed to be biodegradable, with the rate and conditions depending on the specific formulation.

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Recyclable: Some algae-based plastics and materials can be recycled or reprocessed, though the technology and infrastructure for doing so are still in development.

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Biobased: Fully biobased, utilizing the rapid growth and carbon-capturing abilities of algae.

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Compostable: Many algae-derived materials are compostable, particularly those used in packaging and disposable items, breaking down under industrial or sometimes home composting conditions.

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Sustainability Summary

These materials are noteworthy for their potential to reduce reliance on fossil fuels, biodegradability, and in some cases, compostability. Their ability to absorb CO2 during growth further enhances their sustainability profile, making them an attractive option for reducing environmental impact in various industries.

Bacterial Cellulose

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Produced by certain bacteria, bacterial cellulose is a form of biofabric that can be grown in sheets through fermentation processes. It’s explored for use in textiles, medical applications (such as wound dressings), and as a leather alternative.

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Biodegradable: Yes, bacterial cellulose is naturally biodegradable, offering an environmentally friendly alternative to synthetic materials.

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Recyclable: The concept of recycling doesn’t apply in the traditional sense, but waste from production can often be reused or fed back into the fermentation process.

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Biobased: Entirely, as it’s produced through natural bacterial processes.

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Compostable: Yes, it’s compostable, enhancing its appeal as a sustainable material choice.

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Sustainability Summary

Its production is resource-efficient, utilizing sugar-rich waste streams, and results in a biodegradable and compostable material. Bacterial cellulose’s sustainability lies in its natural production process and its ability to replace synthetic materials in various applications.

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Corn-based Polymers (PLA)

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Polylactic acid (PLA) is a bioplastic derived from fermented plant starch, usually corn, and used in a wide range of products, from packaging, disposable cutlery to biodegradable medical devices and 3D printing filament.

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Corn-based polymers, specifically Polylactic Acid (PLA), are also used in fashion and design. In the fashion industry, PLA is utilized for creating biodegradable fabrics and textiles. These eco-friendly materials offer an alternative to traditional, petroleum-based fibers, aligning with the growing demand for sustainable fashion options. PLA fibers are known for their softness, drape, and ability to blend with other fibers, making them suitable for various clothing and accessory applications.

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In design, especially in product and industrial design, PLA is popular as a material for 3D printing. It is biodegradable and sourced from renewable resources, making it an attractive option for prototyping and manufacturing eco-conscious products. Designers use PLA to create everything from wearable fashion items and accessories to decorative objects and functional household products, exploring the material’s versatility and sustainability benefits.

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Biodegradable: PLA is biodegradable under industrial composting conditions, requiring high temperatures to break down efficiently.

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Recyclable: PLA can be recycled, but it requires a separate stream from other plastics due to its different chemical composition.

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Biobased: Fully biobased, derived from renewable plant resources like corn starch.

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Compostable: Yes, in industrial composting facilities, PLA can be composted, turning into water and CO2.

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Sustainability Summary

While PLA offers a renewable alternative to conventional plastics, its sustainability is nuanced. It is biodegradable and compostable under industrial conditions, reducing long-term waste. However, its production competes with food resources, and it requires industrial composting to break down effectively, highlighting the need for appropriate waste management systems to fully realize its environmental benefits.